In collaboration with PASSIONS, VOICE OF ASIA is proud to present timeless articles from the archives, reproduced digitally for your reading pleasure. Originally published in PASSIONS Volume 44 in 2011, we present this story on Islamic fashion, where designers are redefining conservative stereotypes.
A famous British writer once said, “Art consists oflimitations. The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.” Taking that into account, it could be said that people are most creative when rules or limitations are imposed. And with today’s perception of Islamic women being part of a monotonous sea of black abayah and burqa, young Muslim designers are redefining the stereotypes through the fashion industry with their colourful, stylish and eye-catching designs, while still holding true to their religious beliefs. Portraying a religion that values diversity above all else, PASSIONS looks into this new generation of modern and empowered Muslim women, who successfully interweave their love for fashion with their deep faith in God.
Traditionally Tribal
Dominating international catwalks lately, are the bright and colourful ensembles which showcase beautiful traditional designs that seem to have been taken right out of a Turkish or Russian folk-tale. With ethnic aesthetics being the common theme, Islamic fashion designers who are known for their effortless mix of fabrics and colour, include the bubbly and charming Dian Pelangi from Indonesia. Staying true to her name ‘Pelangi’ – which means rainbow – Dian has a sense of fashion which might be interpreted as wild by some. However, it is often embraced by the international community as it represents Indonesia’s credentials for being the world’s hub for Islamic fashion.
Known for her unique skills in experimenting with tie-dyes and volume, Dian’s iconic designs for the fashion-forward woman are bold and brave, taking tribal-inspired wear to the next level. When others tend to lean towards clean and minimalistic designs, Dian takes the road less-travelled and opts for fun-loving ‘hippie-like’ aesthetics, marking her signature stamp in Islamic Fashion with colour, character and eccentricity. Thus, there is no doubt that Dian’s eye-catching designs will make it onto many more international runways in the future, causing more onlookers to stop and take a second glance.
A Queen’s Crown
For most women, their most precious asset is their hair. But for Muslim women, it is their hijab. A scarf wrapped around their faces to conceal their hair, the hijab is now fashioned in many different styles while being complemented with diverse types of accessories. From hats to headbands and from long dangling necklaces to hoop earrings, this goes to show that no matter what your belief is, accessories are truly a women’s universal love.
With these large, beautifully-crafted hats, any woman can be styled elegantly enough to blend in with…dare we say it, British Royalty! Meanwhile, jewel encrusted headbands give the outfits added royal ‘bling’, complementing the overall look with an expensive edge. Whether they may be for an important luncheon with VVIPs or a normal day-out with friends, these accessories make for the perfect ‘add-on accents’ that provide women with extra confidence to face the day’s challenges.
Comfort – The New Vogue
Greeting Autumn and Winter in a riot of rich colours, Islamic Fashion truly proves that there is no season to be gloomy. Showcasing the work of international fashion designer, Rabia Z, are her designs which are heavily influenced by the everyday Dubai woman, exuding class without compromising on comfort. “My muse is a 25+ year-old woman of strength with a distinctive sense of style. She seeks trendiness balanced with tradition, a modicum of moderation and minimalism reflected through every ensemble. These are direct reflections of my core fashion ideology – modern and moderate,” said Rabia.
With her structured Jacket Dress and Jacket Tops, the designer has worked a playful mélange of construction and flow through her unique use of drapery in her signature duster coats and dresses. As Rabia describes her designs as ‘clean, fuss free and comfortable’, her pieces do not just look great, but feel great too. And as her production team only uses the best quality materials which range from silk to jersey, each outfit is designed to give the wearer a beautiful silhouette. Complemented further with a plethora of hijab styles using the sheyla wrap, Rabia has successfully redefined the style of modern Muslim women everywhere – from the bland and hidden to the luxurious and confident.
Black is Back
We cannot write about Islamic Fashion without mentioning the signature abaya. This long and black garment is an identity for Muslim women, especially for those from the Middle East. And with the emergence of countless modern abaya designs, Muslim fashion designers have proven that black is never boring. Known for their timeless combinations of tradition and artistic flair, big names in Western fashion such as Jean Paul Gautier, Givenchy and Elie Saab have also jumped onto the bandwagon by featuring their take on abayas, in conjunction with The Saks Fifth Avenue Riyadh & Jeddah Fashion Show, held at the George V Hotel in Paris.
This iconic genre of Islamic Fashion is traditionally tailor-made using the finest of fabrics and embellished with only high-quality golden thread. But as young, up and coming designers are rapidly making their unique stand in the construction of these abayas, runways are showing more colour, print and fine drapery in their ageless designs. A leading abaya designer, Amal Murad is doing just that. As the first designer who had the privilege to feature her collection at the world’s fashion Mecca – Saks Fifth Avenue, Amal is an ambassador of Middle Eastern style as she pays tribute to the region’s women, whom she describes as ‘epitomising the fine balance between progress and identity.’
Although fashion and taste evolves with time, every woman’s individual style is definitely eternal. Thus, Muslim women are more than just walking, talking cloaks – as they are fashionable and creative human beings who voluntarily choose to define fashion within their religious beliefs. And slowly but surely, these Muslim fashion designers are breaking the stereotypes of Muslim women, often described as ‘voiceless’ and ‘oppressed’, to finally being thought of as determined and confident women. But at the end of the day, who needs to talk when your outfit speaks for itself?
