Situated in the Middle East, Jordan – or to give its official name, the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is a country where one can see and experience the richness of culture and history in the region. Measuring more than 92,000 square kilometres, it has almost everything that will capture the fancy of the intrepid traveller. In June 2012, the Jordan Tourism Board invited PASSIONS, as well as several other international publications, to Jordan. Read on as Editor-in-Chief, Datuk Beatrice Nirmala takes you on a journey through a land that has been both the cradle and meeting place of civilisations.
The Living Dead Sea
After a long and restful flight, my first stop was the world famous Dead Sea, located in the Jordan Valley, to the west of the country. While many know that it is the saltiest body of water in the world (it has 33% more salinity than the oceans), less well-known is that at 400 metres below sea level, the Dead Sea is located at the lowest point on earth.
Combined with the constant evaporation of the water and the climate, this means that the air at the Dead Sea has 8% more oxygen than at sea level. On a personal note, I noticed that the cough which seems to plague me when I am anywhere else, did not make an appearance during my time there.
Unsurprisingly, the Dead Sea has become one of Jordan’s hottest tourism destinations – particularly in the field of health tourism. But that is nothing new, considering that the likes of the Queen of Sheba and Herod the Great were reputed to have bathed in its therapeutic waters. The influx of tourists has also resulted in the building of world-class hotels and resorts such as the marvellous Dead Sea Resort and Spa where I stayed.
Crossing the Jordan
During my time at the Dead Sea, I took a day trip to the River Jordan. It is this body of water which lent its name to the country, and it was also here – in Bethany Beyond The Jordan to be exact – that Jesus was baptised by John The Baptist. Even if you are not a religious person (and I definitely am not!), it is still a must visit for the sheer curiosity value alone. Once a mighty concourse, the River Jordan has shrunk considerably owing to its waters being diverted by the countries it serves, namely Jordan, Syria and Israel.
Talking about Israel, the River Jordan also marks the boundary between the two countries, and standing on the east bank of the river, I could make out an Israeli town on the other side.
The Wonder of Petra
Petra needs little introduction, it is after all a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the 7 Wonders of the Modern World. It is one of those places to which books and videos do little justice. No matter how much you think you know about Petra, nothing prepares you for the sheer awe of seeing the magnificent structures carved into the rock face.
Its true marvel – at least to me – was not only because of its beauty, but also because during its heyday, men and women lived and worked in these structures. Standing there, in the middle of the desert, I saw Petra come to life in my mind’s eye. Just as in those days gone by, hundreds to thousands of people were mingling around and the city was thriving with life and business. And when I came back to the present day, I saw the architectural wonders and appreciated them more for what they represented – a reminder of human achievement.
Adding to its uniqueness is the fact that the architectural styles are a reflection of the various cultures that have passed through the area – Roman, Greek, Egyptian, and Mesopotamian – which is a testament to the open-minded spirit of the Nabateans for whom this city served as their capital.
Wadi Rum’s Rocky Masterpieces
“Vast, echoing and God-like” – so said the famous British soldier-adventurer T.E. Lawrence – better known as Lawrence of Arabia – about the Wadi Rum. I stood in the middle of that vast desert, looking at those monolithic rock formations, which confirmed for me that Mother Nature is indeed the supreme artist. Words cannot do justice to the giant pillars of Wadi Rum which have been sculpted by time over millennia. Just as fascinating as those craggy cliffs is the desert vegetation which has grown and survived in these harsh conditions, thus showing that no matter what, there will always be life.
Sun, Sea and Surf at Aqaba
Jordan is a land of contrasts, and Aqaba is a perfect example. Located just 50 kilometres away from Wadi Rum, it is the country’s southernmost conurbation and also a thriving seaside resort city. Here holiday makers can go sailing on catamarans, dive into the sea to marvel at coral reefs and shipwrecks, or just watch the sun set over the sea. For me, the real wonder was that just an hour ago, I was wandering around in the desert, and now like Coleridge’s Ancient Mariner I was seeing “Water, water everywhere”.
Amman – A Thriving Metropolis
Having moved steadily south along the western side of Jordan from the Dead Sea to Aqaba, it was time to go back north – this time to the capital city Amman. The social, economic, and business, political heart of Jordan, Amman is – unsurprisingly – the most populated area in the country. Approximately 2.2 million people – or approximately 33% of the population – call it home, and more than 3 million people work in it.
To truly appreciate Amman, you have to go down on the ground, and explore the city. You can quite literally lose yourself on the teeming streets of this bustling metropolis which has been rated as one of the top cities in the region. The beauty of Amman is that it not only has all the trappings of a modern city, but also remnants of the past in the form of ancient Roman structures.
Mosaic Marvels of Madaba
30 kilometres away from Amman, Madaba is also known as the City of Mosaics, as it is here that this beautiful art form can be seen and appreciated in its full glory. Introduced to the area during the Byzantine period, it is still practised by craftsmen who painstakingly arrange individual beads to produce stunning works of art. Not just art, mosaic is also symbolic of how Jordan’s culture and history has been enriched by the different groups that had settled there in the past.
Jerash – Rome Sweet Rome
My next destination was Jerash – otherwise known as Little Pompeii, as it is one of the best preserved Roman cities in the Middle East. Like Amman, modern day Jerash is a thriving urban sprawl while the ancient city – with its Roman baths, plazas, baths, fountains and amphitheatre (a side note, you will definitely see a lot of amphitheatres in Jordan) have been kept respectfully free from development. Those visiting Jerash cannot afford to miss the daily shows of Roman legionaries performing their drills, gladiators in ‘mortal’ combat and exciting chariot races. And yes, in case anyone is wondering, it did feel as though I was watching Spartacus, Gladiator and Ben Hur all at once. Such is the wonder of history coming to life.
Finding Paradise at Mt Nebo
Rather fittingly, the last official stop before heading back to Amman and then home to Malaysia was Mt Nebo, which along with Bethany Beyond The Jordan is one of the most visited Christian holy sites in the country. It took Moses 40 years of wandering around to reach here; luckily it only took me one week. Still if Jordan then was as beautiful and as fascinating as Jordan today, we can’t fault him for tarrying a while.
And so ends my travels through Jordan. In some ways, it reminded me so much of home – the different cultures and influences that have shaped the country, its past, present and future. Jordan today is a developing nation with prospects, yet at the same time it has a rich history that it is sharing with the world. Of course, a country is only as good as its people, and the hospitality of the Jordanians is tremendous. I can say for sure that even though I have left Jordan, the memories of the warmth, the sights and the marvels of Jordan will always be with me.
