In collaboration with Convergence, VOICE OF ASIA is proud to present timeless articles from the archives, reproduced digitally for your reading pleasure. Originally published in Convergence Volume 10 in 2012, we present this story on traditional outfits from all across the world.
From the demure kebaya of Malaysia to the flamboyant traje de faraleas of Spain, traditional costumes are not just ordinary pieces of clothing but symbols of a nation’s rich heritage. Reflecting unique cultural norms, beliefs and etiquette, some are part and parcel of everyday dress, while others are worn only for special occasions. But whatever their use may be, they share one thing in common, and that is they fill the hearts of those who don them with pride and self-identity.
If you happen to be in Germany during the months of September and October, then one event you cannot afford to miss is Oktoberfest in the state of Bavaria. Not only is this world famous festival renowned for the copious amounts of German food and drink on offer, it is also when people dress up in costumes of time gone by.
It is very common during that time to see people dressed in the classic costumes for men and women in Germany – namely the tracht and dirndl respectively. The former was the normal choice of upper wear for men in the country, and the differences in patterns and decoration helped in not only identifying the region from which he hailed, but also his marital status and his occupation.
The lederhosen is probably the most famous of German traditional wear – which is a pair of knee-breeches made from leather. Originally worn by workingmen as the material used to make them is sturdy and easy to clean, it has been transformed from a practical dress for the humble labourer to a symbol of German culture.
The girl’s dirndl is more commonly seen than the tracht and lederhosen in modern Germany, however like its male counterpart, the dress hails from more prosaic origins, being the uniforms of servants during the 19th century. While designs may vary, the must-have components are a bodice, a blouse, and a full skirt, with an apron and an elaborate headgear as optional additions. Incidentally, a knot on the apron is usually seen as an indicator that the wearer is a married woman.
In some cases, fashion can also cross borders and influence the way others dress. This was the case for Germany’s neighbours such as Switzerland and Denmark. Like the German outfit, the Swiss and Danish ones were made for practical work.
While German traditional dress may have had ordinary origins, this is not the case for all countries. In Spain’s Andalusia region, the costume of flamenco dancers – namely the traje de flamenca – has become the most visible symbol of the nation. These brightly coloured and flamboyant dresses are easily recognisable by the ruffles in the sleeves and skirt.
While traditional dress is only worn in European countries during special occasions, the same cannot be said for the sari – the dress of choice for many women of Indian sub-continent origins. Comprising a piece of unstitched cloth, worn over a blouse or petticoat, and draped around the waist with one end and then around the shoulder and midriff, the sari is one of the most versatile cultural costumes around. The feeling of beauty, elegance and sensuality makes it very popular among women who wish to emphasise their femininity, while at the same time, certain cuts make it apt as professional work attire.
However, the sari is not the only piece of Indian traditional clothing for women. For example, there is also the chaniya choli, which is a dress made up of a midriff-baring blouse called a choli and a flared, skirt-like bottom, called a chaniya. This dress is usually adorned with beads, shells, mirrors, sitaras, and intricate embroidery work.
In stark contrast to the revealing sari, the Korean hanbok (which means Korean clothing) is a dress which conceals the wearer. This is in line with Confucian teachings which state that “females should never reveal their flesh to others”. The woman’s hanbok consists of a long-sleeve blouse called jeogori, and a canopy-like skirt called a chima, whereas the men’s version is made up of a longer top with loose-fitting pants known as paji. In the olden days, the upper class wore hanbok in a variety of colours made of closely woven, high-grade patterned silks; whereas commoners were restricted by law to cotton garments.
The hanbok’s bulkiness may seem a bit constricting, however that cannot be said about the Mongolian traditional dress known as a del. Still commonly worn in the country, particularly in rural areas, the del is a thick toga-like dress, which is heavy enough to provide protection from the elements while being loose enough to allow the wearer to perform acts such as riding a horse and shooting an arrow from a bow. Such was the way of life when Mongolian culture was more martial-like, and although they may live in more peaceful times, the dress reflects those less tranquil days.
Of particular interest in traditional Mongolian wear is the headgear, of which there are over 100 varieties. Such is the importance of covering one’s head in Mongolian culture that it was forbidden to venture out without a hat, and today, Mongolian youths often make do with modern alternatives such as baseball caps.
The prevalence of traditional costumes today is not limited to special events and festivities, though. In some countries corporate firms had modern adaptations of their national costumes as uniforms, most notably among airline companies. Among the examples are the baju kebaya being adopted as the Malaysia Airlines (MAS) flight attendant’s uniforms. Similarly, the Vietnamese Ao Dai is the uniform for all Vietnam Airlines female staffs, while Indian Airlines flight attendants wear a simplified version of the sari.
Although fashion has changed with other aspects of cultural life throughout time, many traditional costumes remain constant and relevant with the cultures that made them. When worn in a respectful manner, a national costume help forge an appreciation for what makes a nation, its people and culture unique.
