Kelantan – Tranquility by Any Other Name

In collaboration with Convergence, VOICE OF ASIA is proud to present timeless articles from the archives, reproduced digitally for your reading pleasure. Originally published in Convergence Volume 10 in 2012, we present this story on Kelantan, and the treasures that await those who seek them.

It is not often that things live up to their name or billing, and quite often reality fails to match the hype. That cannot be said for the state of Kelantan which truly lives up to its Arabic honorific Darul Naim – The Blissful Abode. Renowned for being the birthplace of Malay culture, life in Kelantan reflects a simpler and gentler time. It is literally a place where you can get away from it all, while at the same time take in a host of new experiences and encounters.

Located on the north-eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Kelantan is surrounded by Perak on the west and Terengganu on the east, while its northern frontier also forms part of Malaysia’s border with Thailand. With a population of around 1.4 million – of which 95% are ethnic Malays, approximately 42% or 600,000 Kelantanese call the state capital and royal city Kota Bharu, home.

Thanks to the advent of modern highway infrastructure, getting to Kelantan is a cinch, and when travelling from Kuala Lumpur, you need only take the PLUS Highway to Gerik in Perak before heading on to the East-West Highway which will take you to Jeli in Kelantan. An alternative way would be by using the Federal Route 8, which connects Kota Bharu with Central Pahang via Kuala Krai and Gua Musang.

Those who wish to cut short the travelling time (and so have more time to take in the sights, sounds and scents of Kelantan), can always take a flight to the Sultan Ismail Petra Airport in Kota Bharu. One of the busiest domestic airports in Malaysia, it has an average annual passenger traffic of more than one million – a remarkable achievement for a non-international terminal.

It would not be wrong to say that one of the main reasons behind the traffic at the airport is that a good number of outstation Kelantanese return home, particularly during the weekends and public holidays.

While Kelantan has its fair share of attractions, perhaps the most endearing are its people. Whether one is of Malay, Chinese, Indian or Siamese descent, the one factor all Kelantanese share is pride and passion for their home state. In fact, in Kelantan, when the term Oghe Kito (which is Kelate or Kelantanese Malay for “Our People”) is used, it refers to all Kelantanese regardless of culture or creed.

At the same time, the people of Kelantan are renowned for being among the most welcoming and hospitable around. Always ready to lend a hand, their warmth towards strangers is just part and parcel of a laid-back old world charm that captivates and enthrals visitors. It is difficult not to be enveloped by the trust extended by the people there, which is such a contrast to the cynicism of city life. And for that alone, a visit to Kelantan is a must – if only to rekindle one’s faith in the good nature of people.

Nature’s Gifts

Kelantan has been blessed with an array of natural wonders, and to truly appreciate the artistry of Mother Nature, you only need to make your way to Gunung Stong State Park. A nature reserve, Gunung Stong is home to Jelawang Waterfall, one of the highest in the country.

You might want to take a hike on the trails there. But go slowly, because if you rush, you will not only be denying yourself the opportunity to admire the beauty of your surroundings, you may also miss the chance to catch the sight of a tapir, a Malayan tiger, a seladang or a serow in their natural habitat.

The wonders of Kelantan extend even to the underground, and if you are in the mood for some cave exploring, then the kampung of Dabong where you will find Gua Ikan (Fish Caves) is the place to go. With the promise of hours of adventure to bring out the explorer in you, you will walk past stunning stalactites and stalagmite formations in these limestone caves that date back over 200 million years.

A Cultural Haven

Natural wonders are but a small part of Kelantan’s charms.

After all, the state is renowned as the cradle of Malay culture, where traditional arts and crafts as well as games are still very much part of everyday life. Perhaps the best place to start your cultural experience is in Kota Bahru, or Gelanggang Seni (Cultural Centre). There you will be treated to a mesmerising array of Kelantanese heritage. Sit down and watch a wayang kulit (shadow puppetry) show where folk tales are brought to life through shadow puppets. Enjoy a traditional drum performance, applaud the skills of silat (Malay martial arts) exponents, and try your hands at gasing (top) spinning and wau (giant kite) flying.

Synonymous with Kelantanese culture, the wau is made from rice paper and bamboo, and is usually colourfully decorated. If you happen to be in Kelantan during May and June, you should not miss visiting the annual wau festival, where you can witness skilled practitioners flying their respective wau for hours on end.

Since you are in Kota Bharu, a trip to Balai Getam Guri (Craft Museum) should be on your itinerary. Here you can find some of the finest examples of Malay craftsmanship, including traditional embroidery and prints such as songket and batik, as well as hand-made silver handicrafts. Better than admiring them though is to see them being made, which you can do so next door at the Handicraft Village, thanks to live demonstrations by skilled artisans. Don’t forget to pick up a keepsake while you’re there.

One of the quaintest sites in Kelantan is Bank Pitis. Located in front of the Sultan’s Palace, it may look like a guardhouse, but in fact, it used to be the former State treasury during the early 20th century. What’s amusing is that the vaults of many banks today are definitely far larger than the strong room which once used to house the treasures and state documents of Kelantan.

Thanks to the wealth of its culture and heritage, Kelantan is a treasure trove for history buffs. For example, just opposite Bank Pitis is the Istana Jahar which houses the Museum of Royal Customs and Regalia, where you can see the finery and learn about the traditions of the Kelantanese royalty.

In a state where more than 90% of the people are Malays (and therefore Muslims), Islam plays a very important role, and the Islamic Museum is the place to go to learn how the faith had developed in the State.

Owing to its proximity to Thailand, Siamese influences can also be found in Kelantan. To see the best example of this, head over to Tumpat, which is just 15 km from Kota Bharu. This district is home to 25 Buddhist temples, including Wat Phothivihan, which houses the longest reclining Buddha in the world – measuring 40 metres in length.

Shopping Galore

While it may not boast mega-malls like those in Kuala Lumpur, Kelantan has more of its fair share of attractions for those seeking retail therapy.

Do pay a trip to the Pasar Siti Khadijah where you can find just about everything from fresh produce to traditional handicraft to cakes. It is also notable as most – if not all of the traders here are women, an aspect which demonstrates the entrepreneurial ability of the Kelantanese womenfolk.

If you are seeking bargains, then just head 40 kilometres away from Kota Bharu to the Thai border and to Rantau Panjang in particular. Here, you can find a duty-free trade zone with a complex offering electronic goods, clothing, and other goods at too-good-to-be-true-but-it-really-is prices.